Herron Farms Dawsonville 706-531-4789

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Organic Farming, Hydroponics, Earthworms/Red Worms
Africans
Self Sufficiency, self sustainment, homesteading, Square foot gardening, vermiculite, vermiculture and vermicomposting.

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Found some work, Thanks

Posted by Herron Farms on January 10, 2015 at 5:35 AM Comments comments (0)

Finaly found some part time/full time work, right up my ally.

Close to home, people seem 1/2 way normal so far, I will still be raising worms, just taking a winter break.....


Looking for part time work

Posted by Herron Farms on January 6, 2015 at 10:55 AM Comments comments (0)

Tim is an Eagle Scout of 1975 with all 3 Palms, and completed his Wood Badge SE140 in 1997, Due to time and health he is not a registered leader right now, but is always willing to help with Scout projects, in any way that he can.

 

Tim tries to live according to the Scout Law and Oath, he feels this covers everything in life, sometimes it is difficult to accomplish, but he does the best he can.

 

July 2012.....................................................................................................................................

 

After several years of hard work, my whole out look on Earthworms has changed, I have raised Rabbits and worms since the 70s, off and on, It has helped pay the bills at times.

 

But, I am now , more interested in helping people go organic, than making a dollar. Dont take that to far out of context, I still need to provide. But, this is not all about money like it is for most of the site's I have seen. There is so much twisted information out there, it isent funny. I wont lie to you, to make a sale. I sell things for connivance, but encourage and help people to make their own.

Call us for more info 706-531-4789 Dawsonville Ga. 30534

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving Day

Posted by Herron Farms on November 30, 2014 at 8:10 AM Comments comments (0)

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving day,

Spring time, has sprung

Posted by Herron Farms on June 7, 2014 at 7:05 AM Comments comments (0)

The last few weeks have been, very, very busy for me. I have found myself doing about 2 class's per week, aveage.

I would like to report, that I am getting rich from doing them, but the truth is, I give several free to summer school class's, VBS, and local groups. as long as they are local.

If you would like to schdule a group, to learn more about earthworms, vermiculture and the benifits, shoot me an email. most group price's avg 150.00 for local groups, can do here or there. We can adjust for gas or extra's if needed.

[email protected]



Keep Dawson County Beautiful's annual electronics recycling event is this weekend

Posted by Herron Farms on April 17, 2014 at 9:15 AM Comments comments (0)

Keep Dawson County Beautiful's annual electronics recycling event is this weekend.

Volunteers will be in the Dawsonville Walmart parking lot from 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Saturday to help unload personal computers, printers, monitors, stereo equipment, radios, telephones, circuit boards and fax machines, among other items.

Last year, the group collected more than 4,000 pounds of electronics that will be recycled and not deposited into local landfills.

"This brings our total to 33,000 pounds in a course of five years," said Karen Armstrong, the volunteer group's chairwoman. "This progress brings our community one step closer to a cleaner environment for our children."

Keep Dawson County Beautiful Executive Director Kristi Hudson said the event is an excellent opportunity to discard electronics in a safe and efficient manner.

"Hard drives are destroyed and shredded at the warehouse. You can rest easy knowing that your business and personal information will be securely and permanently removed from your hard drive," she said.

A $20 removal fee applies for televisions. No console TVs will be accepted. There is also a $5 fee for computer monitors.

Keep Dawson County Beautiful is an affiliate of Keep America Beautiful and Keep Georgia Beautiful.

The organization's mission is to "encourage citizens to take greater responsibility in the beautification of Dawson County."

A $5 donation per car or truckload will benefit Keep Dawson County Beautiful.

For more information, call (678) 943-0516.

 

Some planting myth's,

Posted by Herron Farms on April 5, 2014 at 9:30 AM Comments comments (0)

By Robert Cox, Horticulture Agent, Colorado State University Cooperative Extension

Many consumers assume that products on the store shelf must have been tested to prove their claims.  Certainly, fertilizers have to meet nutrient content requirements, and pesticides are rigorously tested for safety before EPA registration.

For some other garden products, however, no such testing is required before sale to the public.

A good example is vitamin B1 (thiamine), often sold to "prevent transplant shock" and "stimulate new root growth" when planting trees, shrubs, roses and other plants.  A study in the 1930's provided the basis for such claims.   Pea roots cut off from the plant were placed in a culture medium in the laboratory.

The researchers knew that thiamine was normally found in roots, so they put thiamine in the culture medium and found that root growth did occur.  Vitamin B1 is manufactured in 0lant leaves and sent to the roots, but if roots are cut off and placed in a petri plate, vitamin B1 stimulates growth of the roots when it saturates the culture medium.

Planting trees in a soil environment, however, is vastly different from a laboratory culture.  Most important, gardeners aren't in the habit of cutting off the root system when planting. Several studies using intact mums, apple trees, orange trees, pine, tomato, beans, pepper, corn, pear, watermelon and squash have failed to demonstrate that vitamin B1 treatments provide any type of growth response.

Some "root stimulator" products contain a rooting hormone and fertilizer along with vitamin B1.  These materials may increase rooting and growth, not the vitamin B1.

The bottom line: While root stimulator products are not necessary for transplant success, if you do use one, make sure it contains a rooting hormone and fertilizer rather than just vitamin B1. The vitamin B1 is for marketing purposes rather than actual effect.

Sulfur

Sulfur is claimed to "reduce alkalinity."  When applied to our soils, sulfur must be oxidized by soil bacteria to the sulfate form; then sulfate reacting with water forms sulfuric acid.

In our soils, the bacteria responsible for sulfur oxidation are sparse, so the reaction may take many months or years.  If sulfate is formed, it just reacts with the lime (calcium) usually prevalent in our soil to form gypsum (calcium sulfate).   The bottom line:  Don't spend a lot of money on it unless a soil test shows that your soil has low lime levels.

Gypsum

Gypsum is claimed to "break up and loosen clay soils."  Again, in the Front Range area of high calcium (calcareous) soil, this is a local myth.  Gypsum (calcium sulfate) added to clay soils having high sodium replaces the sodium with calcium, a much more desirable soil condition.  The sodium is than leached out of the soil with water.

Locally, however, clay soils already are high in calcium.  High sodium soils are rare along the Front Range.  Adding calcium to a soil that does not need it is a waste of money.  Additional calcium in the form of gypsum, a salt, will only make soils more saline.

Wound Dressings

Wound dressing for pruning cuts have been shown not only to be unnecessary, but many actually inhibit callus growth over the cut.  Tars, emulsions, asphalts and waxes can dry and crack, especially in Colorado's climate.  When water gets behind the crack, disease may be promoted rather than prevented.

The best treatment of a pruning cut is not treatment at all. Many people expect to treat tree wounds just like they would treat cuts in the human body--with a dressing.   the public expects to see tree wound treated in some way, usually with a black "sealer."  As a result, one city tree crew, knowing that dressings are not helpful but also aware of public expectation, applies a thin coat of black spray paint to pruning cuts.

The Myth of Day Watering

Still showing up in some popular garden literature is the notion that "day-watering can burn plants."  The notion says that sunlight is "magnified by the water drop on the leaf to cause a leaf burn.

Anyone who ever burned ants using a magnifying glass and the sun knows that the magnifying glass did not burn the ant if it were placed directly on the ant.  Rather, it had to be held a distance (focal distance) from the ant to concentrate the sun's rays enough to burn the ant.

If this notion were true, all gardeners would cover all their plants prior to every rainstorm.

Farmers would not be able to prevent widespread "leafburn" after rain clouds gave way to sunshine.  The root of this notion may have come from the effects of applying poor-quality water high in dissolved salts.  As water drops evaporated from leaves,the salts left behind could cause a leaf burn.

These are but a few of many claims and examples of conventional wisdom offered to the gardening public.

Ever since gardens were planted, observations and anecdotal claims have been offered to improve garden success.  Some of these may be myths in Colorado but good advice in other areas of the country.  Be cautious of label and advertising claims for garden products and skeptical of what you hear--and read!

Yahoo Answers, Yahoo Answers, Yahoo Answers

Posted by Herron Farms on January 15, 2014 at 8:10 PM Comments comments (0)

Yahoo Answers realy gets under my skin, as long as you ask or answer a queston that they like and agree with its okay.... but if they dont like your answer you are forever banned, I have apealed for over 5 years, how can that be possable.

so I will use thier ignorance to my advantage.....................

Yahoo Answers Sucks...................:)

Identifying different kinds of worms

Posted by Herron Farms on December 18, 2013 at 8:55 PM Comments comments (0)

Identifying different kinds of worms

Posted by Herron Farms on November 11, 2010 at 2:19 PM

EARTHWORM SPECIES

This page clarifies which species is which in the Vermi-composting world. There seems to be a lot of confusion, even amongst worm breeders, on exactly which “Red Worm” (commonly named the “Red Wriggler”) they are breeding and selling. The name “Red Wriggler” has been so loosely used in the past, that you very likely NOT getting the ACTUAL “RED WRIGGLER”.

So if you really don't mind which red composting worm you have, as long as it gets the job done, great! but for those who want to know more about the worms you have, and more of their characteristics, or if you are interested in breeding worms yourself, then read on. . .

The Real “Red Wriggler” !!

The common name “Red Wriggler” was first given to the “Red Worm” from the genus Lumbricus rubellus. Its other common names are Red Worm, Dung Worm or Blood Worm, and more recently I have begun to refer to these as “True Reds”. It is called “Red Wriggler” because these worms are EXTREMELY sensitive to light. While all worms “wriggle” with discomfort at being exposed to light (mostly ultra-violet light from the sun), this “Red Wriggler” thrashes about violently. This characteristic, as well as the fact they exude amino acids, make these “Red Wrigglers” irresistible to fish, and therefore THIS is the “Red Wriggler” sought after by fishermen as great bait.

“True Reds” are good composting worms, but do not breed as prolifically as other commercial earthworms. They do their best work in the soil as they are endogeic (soil dwellers) that convert decaying plant and animal material into available food for plants at the roots where it is needed. They also turn and aerate the soil as they borrow horizontally through the soil

How to tell a “True Red” (Lumbricus rubellus)

COLOUR: Dark Red or Maroon - somewhat iridescent on top and light yellow underside.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Yellowish trowel shaped tail and has NO stripes or banding

ADULT LENGTH: 3-4 inches with up to 95 -120 segments

CLITELLUM: Found between segments 27 - 32 - raised on top side and flatter underneath.

FIRST DORSAL PORE: Found between segment 7 & 8.

HABITAT: Endogeic (Soil Dwellers) -Prefer top 6 to 12 inches of soil

FOOD PREFERENCES: Rich compost, decaying plants & animal material.

TEMPERATURES: 18 to 23o C

COCOON HATCHING: 10 - 16 weeks

The Mis-named Red Wriggler !!

The common name “Red Wriggler” has been associated with another red-coloured worm that isn't from the “Red” (rubellus) family, but is from the “Tiger” family. The Latin name for the Tiger Worm is Eisenia fetida. The worm mis-named “Red Wrigglers” are actually “Red Tigers”, which are a sub-species of the Tiger Worm. Red Tigers are Eisenia fetida andrii. Another common name is Red Brandling Worm. These worms do not “wriggle” as much as the real “Red Wriggler” when exposed to sunlight, and almost appear sluggish in comparison to the True Reds. Also, all Tiger Worms release a ‘fetid' taste and smell as a defense mechanism, and therefore are NOT suitable for fishing! So selling “Red Tigers” as “Red Wrigglers” makes a HUGE difference to fishermen looking for a true “Red Wriggler”, and is somewhat misleading.

Tiger Worms (regular and red) are ideal for composting rich organic waste from the kitchen as they live off a rich source of food,and process large amounts.

How to tell a Red Tiger Worm (Eisenia fetida andrii)

COMMON NAMES: Red Tiger Worm, Red Brandling Worm, Red Tiger Hybrid

COLOUR: Reddish-purple with dark and light stripes or banding between segments

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Banding between segments and have a slightly pointed tail.

ADULT LENGTH: 3 inches

CLITELLUM: Found between segments 26 - 32 - raised all around the worm like a bandage.

FIRST DORSAL PORE: Found between segment 4 & 5.

HABITAT: Epigeic (Surface Dwellers) - Prefer top few inches of soil.

FOOD PREFERENCES: VERY Rich compost, decaying food & animal manures.

TEMPERATURES: 18 to 32o C

COCOON HATCHING: 25 - 70 days, depending on conditions.

How to tell a Tiger Worm (Eisenia fetida)

COMMON NAMES: Tiger Worm, Brandling Worm, Manure Worm, Garlic Worm

COLOUR: Rusty Brown with dark and light alternating stripes of dark brown and light yellow/cream

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Distinct banding between segments and has a rounded tail.

ADULT LENGTH: 3 inches

CLITELLUM: Found between segments 26 - 32 - raised all around the worm like a bandage.

FIRST DORSAL PORE: Found between segment 4 & 5.

HABITAT: Epigeic (Surface Dwellers) - Prefer top few inches of soil.

FOOD PREFERENCES: VERY Rich compost, decaying food & animal manures.

TEMPERATURES: 15 to 25o C

COCOON HATCHING: 25 - 70 days, depending on conditions.

Note: There are some that believe that the “Red Tiger” is a cross or hybrid of the regular brown Tiger (above) and the True Red, and have even named this worm ”Red Tiger Hybrid”, but this is highly unlikely, as there is little scientific evidence that species are able to cross breed because the sexual organs are not ‘matched ‘ for copulation. Although T.J. Barret (Harnessing the Earthworm - 1947) includes documentation submitted by Dr George Oliver that claimed that he had succeeded in hybridising Lumbricus Terrestris - (Night Crawler) with Eisenia Foetida (Tiger/Brandling Worm) in 1925 and named this the “Domestic Earthworm”.

Blue composting worms :

The “True Blue” Worm

If there was confusion over the Red Worms, the Blues have a similar problem in that another blue coloured worm from an entirely different species (Spenceriella noctiluca) native to Australia have been called all the common names that were originally given to Perionyx excavitus. These include Blue Worm, Indian Blue, and Malasian Blue, so once again, to avoid confusion, I call these “True Blues”. The “Aussie Blues” have many similar physical and habitual characteristics to the True Blues, that the confusion here is more forgivable. The traits that separate them are very subtle physical characteristics, while the other distinguishing factors are mostly anatomical, and therefore unseen. Another similarity is that neither tolerate cold climates and prefer more tropical regions. True Blues are known to leave a wormery and have been called “Travellers” by Mary Appelhof in “Worms eat my garbage” (1982 & 1997)

How to tell a True Blue (Perionyx excavitus)

COMMON NAMES: Blue Worm, Indian Blue (named by David Murphy), and Malasian Blue

COLOUR: Perionyx excavitus: Anterior is pupley-blue and the posterior is reddish brown, (while Spenceriella noctiluca is electric pupley-blue on top and reddish brown underneath.)

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Banding between segments and have a slightly pointed tail.

ADULT LENGTH: up to 6 inches

CLITELLUM: Found between segments 7 - 10 - slightly depressed rather than raised.

FIRST DORSAL PORE: Found between segment 4 & 5.

HABITAT: Epigeic (Surface Dwellers) - Prefer top few inches of soil.

FOOD PREFERENCES: VERY Rich compost, decaying food & animal manures.

TEMPERATURES: 20 to 25 C

COCOON HATCHING: 7 - 21 days, depending on conditions.

Note: Perionyx excavitus is parthenogenic, meaning that they are not only hermaphrodites, (ie. have both female and male sexual organs like all earthworms,) but they are able to fertilise themselves, and do not need a mate to reproduce, while hermaphrodites need a mate to transfer each others sperm to fertilise their eggs.

The “Aussie” Blue” Worm (Spenceriella noctiluca)

Several (4) of the Spenceriella species (amongst other species) have been described as Bioluminescent Australian Earthworms. These four Spenceriella species are placed in a new cormieri species-group in the sub-genus Spenceriella S(S). The sub-genus Spenceriella is redefined to include species of earthworm lacking calciferous glands, a highly uncommon occurrence in earthworms, as this gland is credited with the earthworms' ability to produce large amounts of calcium carbonate to aid digestion and is believed to be the secret behind earthworms' ability to neutralise acidic soils. The fact that Spenceriella do not have this gland is the reason for their recent re-classification.

Why these worms are confused with Perionyx Excavitus, is due to the fact that on tactile stimulation Spenceriella noctiluca exhibit spontaneous blueish luminescence which is enhanced by addition of peroxide. Along with other similar external physical characteristics, including the depressed clitellum, make this species easily confused with the “True Blue”.

 

The Classic “Nightcrawler” (Lumbricus terrestris)

Nightcrawlers have a few distinguishing features, both physically and habitually, that have been found in an “African cousin” of another species Eudrillus eugeniae (commonly named the “African Night Crawler”.) Once again, these two species are often confused. Nightcrawlers are not great for domestic vermi-composting even though they are one of the most prolific breeders. The reason is mostly because they prefer their tunnels to be undisturbed and are restless if they are unable to burrow deep enough. They have been known to leave domestic wormeries in search of deeper ground. Nightcrawlers have been known to burrow down 6 to 8 feet deep, but come to the surface to forage and to deposit their castings and capsules. This characteristic makes Nightcrawlers one of the more important earthworms for soil rejuvenation, as they bring minerals from the sub-soil to the surface in their castings and take organic matter deep into their burrows. This cycle is paramount to replenishing our depleting and eroding top soil. Conventional ‘unsustainable' agriculture creates a loss of 75 BILLION TONS of topsoil is lost each year - equating to a loss of around 10 million hectares of productive land per year. Eg. 1 kg of wheat equates to the loss of 5-7kgs of topsoil. Introducing Nightcrawlers to agricultual/pasteral lands could turn this critical situation around in a relatively short period of time.

How to tell a Night Crawler (Lumbricus terrestris)

COMMON NAMES: Nightcrawler, Dew Worm, Rain Worm, Orchard Worm, Angle Worm, Night Lion

COLOUR: Reddish Brown, can appear to have a greenish tinge, with yellowish underside

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Flattened tail

ADULT LENGTH: up to 14 inches

CLITELLUM: Found between segments 32 & 38 - prominent orange-red

FIRST DORSAL PORE: Found between segment 21 - 23.

HABITAT: Anecic (Deep Burrowers) - Vertical burrows found to be up to 8 feet deep

FOOD PREFERENCES: Decaying Organic Matter.

TEMPERATURES: 10 to 15o C

COCOON HATCHING: 14 - 21 days, depending on conditions.

How to tell an African Night Crawler (Eudrillus Eugeniae)

COMMON NAMES: African Nightcrawler, Giant Nightcrawler

COLOUR: Dark mauve or pink throughout, and are slightly iridescent

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Cream striping

ADULT LENGTH: up to 16 inches

CLITELLUM: Found between segments 32 & 38 - prominent orange-red

FIRST DORSAL PORE: Found between segment 21 - 23.

HABITAT: Anecic (Deep Burrowers) - Vertical burows found to be up to 6 feet deep

FOOD PREFERENCES: Decaying Organic Matter.

TEMPERATURES: 15 to 30o C

This page stolen from Herron Farms Dawsonville Ga. 30534706-531-9917

Categories: Herron Farms Dawsonville Ga.30534, Atlanta and Metro Atlanta Worms, Vermicomposting

Africans and tigers

Posted by Herron Farms on December 3, 2013 at 9:20 AM Comments comments (0)

For the benefit of all those who might not know, Eisenia fetida (newer spelling) is almost certainly the most widely known and used composting worm. Some of this species’ common names include Red Worm (or Redworm), Red Wiggler, Manure Worm, Brandling Worm and Tiger Worm. Eudrilus eugeniae is a lesser known/used tropical composting (and bait) worm, known as the African Nightcrawler (or just ‘African’ or ANC for short).

As far as which worm is better, while it certainly does depend on the specific application in question, in general Eisenia fetida is thought to be the most versatile of the vermicomposting worms.

It has a very wide temperature tolerance, will happily consume a wide variety of organic waste materials, has a relatively high rate of reproduction, and is just generally a highly adaptable worm.

The African Nightcrawler is certainly not without its benefits.

Under ideal conditions this species can process wastes very quickly and also has a very high rate of growth and reproduction.

In fact, Dominguez et al. (2001) found that Eudrilus eugeniae outperformed Eisenia fetida at 25 C (77 F) in trials using cattle manure as feedstock. The authors suggest that this species along with Perionyx excavatus (Blue Worm) are well-suited for vermicomposting systems in tropical regions.

Earthworm Mounds

Posted by Herron Farms on November 21, 2013 at 7:15 AM Comments comments (0)

When night temperatures are warm, even during fall and winter when warm spells occur, I often get questions about tiny mounds of granular soil covering small or large areas of the lawn. The Pitt County Extension Master Gardeners and I have already had numerous calls and questions about this unusual disturbance of the soil this month. If you have seen this, then you may have a thriving population of earthworms.

Often earthworms leave small mounds or clumps of granular soil, which are called castings, scattered about in the lawn or garden. The castings may be seen as a nuisance when they accumulate. This situation is often noticed in fall, winter, or spring when warm season grasses are dormant or grow slowly. Without constant growth of grass and mowing to knock them down, the castings brought to the surface are more noticeable. Sometimes earthworms may enter drainage holes of containers sitting on the soil or sunken into the ground. The castings may clog the drainage as they accumulate in the container.

As earthworms tunnel through the soil, they ingest the soil and digest any organic matter in it. Organic matter is dragged into their burrows and is broken down. Although earthworms are most numerous in the top 6 inches, they also work in the subsoil, bringing mineral rich soil from below to the surface. This adds to the supply of nutrients available to the plants. In 100 square feet of garden soil, earthworms may bring from 4‑8 pounds of dirt to the soil surface each year.

Besides incorporating organic matter into your soil, earthworms are good manufacturers of fertilizer. Castings have a nutrient level and organic matter level higher than that of the surrounding soil. Each day they produce nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium and many micronutrients in a form that all plants can use. For example, a 200 square feet garden with a low worm population of only 5 worms per cubic foot will be provided with over 35 pounds (about 1/3 pound per worm) of top grade fertilizer each year.

Not only do they produce this fertilizer, they spread it in the top 12 inches of soil. They may also incorporate it as far down as 6 ft. A soil that is well managed and rich in humus may easily support 25 worms per cubic foot, which translates into at least 175 pounds of fertilizer per year for the same 200 square feet of garden.

This means that your garden or lawn can be supplied with fertilizer of superior quality and soil building properties than a dry or granular fast acting fertilizer of 10‑20 pounds. Worms make other contributions, such as adding calcium carbonate, a compound that helps moderate soil pH. Over time, earthworms may help change acid or alkaline soils toward a more neutral pH.

Earthworm tunnels help to aerate and loosen the soil. This allows more oxygen in, which not only helps the plant directly, but also improves conditions for certain beneficial soil bacteria. Finally, the tunneling of earthworms provides access to deeper soil levels for the numerous smaller organisms that contribute to the health of the soil.

Earthworm activity in your soil is beneficial and should be encouraged. They help incorporate organic matter, improve the soil structure, improve water movement through the soil, improve plant root growth and minimize thatch build up in lawns. Since earthworms are beneficial, control measures are not required. Once warm season grasses begin to grow actively they will cover the soil and castings earthworms have brought to the surface. Earthworm populations will be higher in very moist areas. Core aerating and topdressing lawns with thin layers of sand over time may improve surface drainage and help reduce earthworm numbers to a tolerable level. In heavy, wet soils, installation of drainage systems may remove excess moisture but it may not be enough to reduce earthworm populations. Except in extreme cases it is best to enjoy the fact that nature is at work in your yard and you have a work force out there improving the soil day and night.