Herron Farms Dawsonville 706-531-4789

. Organic Farming, Hydroponics, Earthworms/Red Worms Africans Self Sufficiency, self sustainment, homesteading, Square foot gardening, vermiculite, vermiculture and vermicomposting.


Tim herron

Posted by Tim Herron on June 7, 2022 at 8:50 AM Comments comments (0)
I have been in the worm business for about 50 years. In the last few years my health has got so bad I can't farm or do much of anything outside. I still love helping people. Do if you have questions. I am usually willing to help if I can. Think you for many great years.

Some planting myth's,

Posted by Tim Herron on April 5, 2014 at 9:30 AM Comments comments (0)

By Robert Cox, Horticulture Agent, Colorado State University Cooperative Extension

Many consumers assume that products on the store shelf must have been tested to prove their claims.  Certainly, fertilizers have to meet nutrient content requirements, and pesticides are rigorously tested for safety before EPA registration.

For some other garden products, however, no such testing is required before sale to the public.

A good example is vitamin B1 (thiamine), often sold to "prevent transplant shock" and "stimulate new root growth" when planting trees, shrubs, roses and other plants.  A study in the 1930's provided the basis for such claims.   Pea roots cut off from the plant were placed in a culture medium in the laboratory.

The researchers knew that thiamine was normally found in roots, so they put thiamine in the culture medium and found that root growth did occur.  Vitamin B1 is manufactured in 0lant leaves and sent to the roots, but if roots are cut off and placed in a petri plate, vitamin B1 stimulates growth of the roots when it saturates the culture medium.

Planting trees in a soil environment, however, is vastly different from a laboratory culture.  Most important, gardeners aren't in the habit of cutting off the root system when planting. Several studies using intact mums, apple trees, orange trees, pine, tomato, beans, pepper, corn, pear, watermelon and squash have failed to demonstrate that vitamin B1 treatments provide any type of growth response.

Some "root stimulator" products contain a rooting hormone and fertilizer along with vitamin B1.  These materials may increase rooting and growth, not the vitamin B1.

The bottom line: While root stimulator products are not necessary for transplant success, if you do use one, make sure it contains a rooting hormone and fertilizer rather than just vitamin B1. The vitamin B1 is for marketing purposes rather than actual effect.


Sulfur is claimed to "reduce alkalinity."  When applied to our soils, sulfur must be oxidized by soil bacteria to the sulfate form; then sulfate reacting with water forms sulfuric acid.

In our soils, the bacteria responsible for sulfur oxidation are sparse, so the reaction may take many months or years.  If sulfate is formed, it just reacts with the lime (calcium) usually prevalent in our soil to form gypsum (calcium sulfate).   The bottom line:  Don't spend a lot of money on it unless a soil test shows that your soil has low lime levels.


Gypsum is claimed to "break up and loosen clay soils."  Again, in the Front Range area of high calcium (calcareous) soil, this is a local myth.  Gypsum (calcium sulfate) added to clay soils having high sodium replaces the sodium with calcium, a much more desirable soil condition.  The sodium is than leached out of the soil with water.

Locally, however, clay soils already are high in calcium.  High sodium soils are rare along the Front Range.  Adding calcium to a soil that does not need it is a waste of money.  Additional calcium in the form of gypsum, a salt, will only make soils more saline.

Wound Dressings

Wound dressing for pruning cuts have been shown not only to be unnecessary, but many actually inhibit callus growth over the cut.  Tars, emulsions, asphalts and waxes can dry and crack, especially in Colorado's climate.  When water gets behind the crack, disease may be promoted rather than prevented.

The best treatment of a pruning cut is not treatment at all. Many people expect to treat tree wounds just like they would treat cuts in the human body--with a dressing.   the public expects to see tree wound treated in some way, usually with a black "sealer."  As a result, one city tree crew, knowing that dressings are not helpful but also aware of public expectation, applies a thin coat of black spray paint to pruning cuts.

The Myth of Day Watering

Still showing up in some popular garden literature is the notion that "day-watering can burn plants."  The notion says that sunlight is "magnified by the water drop on the leaf to cause a leaf burn.

Anyone who ever burned ants using a magnifying glass and the sun knows that the magnifying glass did not burn the ant if it were placed directly on the ant.  Rather, it had to be held a distance (focal distance) from the ant to concentrate the sun's rays enough to burn the ant.

If this notion were true, all gardeners would cover all their plants prior to every rainstorm.

Farmers would not be able to prevent widespread "leafburn" after rain clouds gave way to sunshine.  The root of this notion may have come from the effects of applying poor-quality water high in dissolved salts.  As water drops evaporated from leaves,the salts left behind could cause a leaf burn.

These are but a few of many claims and examples of conventional wisdom offered to the gardening public.

Ever since gardens were planted, observations and anecdotal claims have been offered to improve garden success.  Some of these may be myths in Colorado but good advice in other areas of the country.  Be cautious of label and advertising claims for garden products and skeptical of what you hear--and read!

winter shipping has slowed, still shipping just not a fast as we were, waiting for good days

Posted by Tim Herron on January 18, 2014 at 7:55 PM Comments comments (0)

we have a few orders on hold, aiting for good times to ship, sorry..............a note that I dont want to make.....if you make an order, and it is shipped as requested, if it is refused for any reason (exept a totaly devistated box) you have bought those worms...................sorry, but when I send out worms in this cold weather, I put in 36 hour heat packs, insulate them well and take great care shipping priority 2 day mail, lable live bait. and have lost only one shipment to vermont in the last 5 years. it was a blizzard.

if it takes 36 hours total to get to you from the time boxed up, they still may have some heat left but not much, they will start cooling fast if not put in a bin,......

if you refuse them, they are being sent back to me, with no heat pack and will likely die within the first few hours, after 12 for sure, and have to be dead after traviling 36 hours with no heat at all, in sub freezin temps..........so, please dont refuse a pakage that you have ordered. these are live worms.......

same thing for undeliverabal, wrong address, if its no wrong on my part, why should I have to pay, I am not walmart.............

sorry, but had this come up this week, first time in 5 years...............................

Looking for local distributers

Posted by Tim Herron on November 17, 2013 at 5:50 AM Comments comments (1)

Herron Farms is looking for local Distributers, In or around the North East Ga. area.

Dawson, Forsyth, Hall, Pickens, Lumpkin, White, Jasper, Dawsonville, Gainesville,

Looking to branch out to local nursery's, feed and seed, co-op's, organic markets, hydroponic stores and more.

We have a full line or Vermicomposting products, pre packaged, pre labeled and ready for sale.

Give us a call at 706-531-4789 or send email at [email protected]

Bull Run Conyers

Posted by Tim Herron on October 19, 2013 at 8:30 AM Comments comments (0)

Are you kidding me, why would any one want to compeat with a bull, you have got to be out of your mind.....

Free Shipping on Africans

Posted by Tim Herron on October 14, 2013 at 6:25 PM Comments comments (0)

Free Shipping on Africans, while supply lasts.

over 36 thousand hits

Posted by Tim Herron on October 7, 2013 at 4:35 PM Comments comments (0)

I cant beleve I have had over 36,000 hits on this site, not to mention about 5 other site's with an average of 5-10,000 hits per site. wow, all within a few years.

that shows me there is a true interest in vermicomposting.

cool site

Posted by Tim Herron on October 4, 2013 at 7:35 PM Comments comments (0)

The Real “Red Wriggler

Posted by Tim Herron on September 29, 2013 at 8:10 AM Comments comments (0)


This page clarifies which species is which in the Vermi-composting world. There seems to be a lot of confusion, even amongst worm breeders, on exactly which “Red Worm” (commonly named the “Red Wriggler”) they are breeding and selling. The name “Red Wriggler” has been so loosely used in the past, that you very likely NOT getting the ACTUAL “RED WRIGGLER”.

So if you really don't mind which red composting worm you have, as long as it gets the job done, great! but for those who want to know more about the worms you have, and more of their characteristics, or if you are interested in breeding worms yourself, then read on. . .

The Real “Red Wriggler” !!

The common name “Red Wriggler” was first given to the “Red Worm” from the genus Lumbricus rubellus. Its other common names are Red Worm, Dung Worm or Blood Worm, and more recently I have begun to refer to these as “True Reds”. It is called “Red Wriggler” because these worms are EXTREMELY sensitive to light. While all worms “wriggle” with discomfort at being exposed to light (mostly ultra-violet light from the sun), this “Red Wriggler” thrashes about violently. This characteristic, as well as the fact they exude amino acids, make these “Red Wrigglers” irresistible to fish, and therefore THIS is the “Red Wriggler” sought after by fishermen as great bait.

“True Reds” are good composting worms, but do not breed as prolifically as other commercial earthworms. They do their best work in the soil as they are endogeic (soil dwellers) that convert decaying plant and animal material into available food for plants at the roots where it is needed. They also turn and aerate the soil as they borrow horizontally through the soil

How to tell a “True Red” (Lumbricus rubellus)

COLOUR: Dark Red or Maroon - somewhat iridescent on top and light yellow underside.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Yellowish trowel shaped tail and has NO stripes or banding

ADULT LENGTH: 3-4 inches with up to 95 -120 segments

CLITELLUM: Found between segments 27 - 32 - raised on top side and flatter underneath.

FIRST DORSAL PORE: Found between segment 7 & 8.

HABITAT: Endogeic (Soil Dwellers) -Prefer top 6 to 12 inches of soil

FOOD PREFERENCES: Rich compost, decaying plants & animal material.


COCOON HATCHING: 10 - 16 weeks

The Mis-named Red Wriggler !!

The common name “Red Wriggler” has been associated with another red-coloured worm that isn't from the “Red” (rubellus) family, but is from the “Tiger” family. The Latin name for the Tiger Worm is Eisenia fetida. The worm mis-named “Red Wrigglers” are actually “Red Tigers”, which are a sub-species of the Tiger Worm. Red Tigers are Eisenia fetida andrii. Another common name is Red Brandling Worm. These worms do not “wriggle” as much as the real “Red Wriggler” when exposed to sunlight, and almost appear sluggish in comparison to the True Reds. Also, all Tiger Worms release a ‘fetid' taste and smell as a defense mechanism, and therefore are NOT suitable for fishing! So selling “Red Tigers” as “Red Wrigglers” makes a HUGE difference to fishermen looking for a true “Red Wriggler”, and is somewhat misleading.

Tiger Worms (regular and red) are ideal for composting rich organic waste from the kitchen as they live off a rich source of food,and process large amounts.

How to tell a Red Tiger Worm (Eisenia fetida andrii)

COMMON NAMES: Red Tiger Worm, Red Brandling Worm, Red Tiger Hybrid

COLOUR: Reddish-purple with dark and light stripes or banding between segments

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Banding between segments and have a slightly pointed tail.

ADULT LENGTH: 3 inches

CLITELLUM: Found between segments 26 - 32 - raised all around the worm like a bandage.

FIRST DORSAL PORE: Found between segment 4 & 5.

HABITAT: Epigeic (Surface Dwellers) - Prefer top few inches of soil.

FOOD PREFERENCES: VERY Rich compost, decaying food & animal manures.


COCOON HATCHING: 25 - 70 days, depending on conditions.

How to tell a Tiger Worm (Eisenia fetida)

COMMON NAMES: Tiger Worm, Brandling Worm, Manure Worm, Garlic Worm

COLOUR: Rusty Brown with dark and light alternating stripes of dark brown and light yellow/cream

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Distinct banding between segments and has a rounded tail.

ADULT LENGTH: 3 inches

CLITELLUM: Found between segments 26 - 32 - raised all around the worm like a bandage.

FIRST DORSAL PORE: Found between segment 4 & 5.

HABITAT: Epigeic (Surface Dwellers) - Prefer top few inches of soil.

FOOD PREFERENCES: VERY Rich compost, decaying food & animal manures.


COCOON HATCHING: 25 - 70 days, depending on conditions.

Note: There are some that believe that the “Red Tiger” is a cross or hybrid of the regular brown Tiger (above) and the True Red, and have even named this worm ”Red Tiger Hybrid”, but this is highly unlikely, as there is little scientific evidence that species are able to cross breed because the sexual organs are not ‘matched ‘ for copulation. Although T.J. Barret (Harnessing the Earthworm - 1947) includes documentation submitted by Dr George Oliver that claimed that he had succeeded in hybridising Lumbricus Terrestris - (Night Crawler) with Eisenia Foetida (Tiger/Brandling Worm) in 1925 and named this the “Domestic Earthworm”.

Blue composting worms :

The “True Blue” Worm

If there was confusion over the Red Worms, the Blues have a similar problem in that another blue coloured worm from an entirely different species (Spenceriella noctiluca) native to Australia have been called all the common names that were originally given to Perionyx excavitus. These include Blue Worm, Indian Blue, and Malasian Blue, so once again, to avoid confusion, I call these “True Blues”. The “Aussie Blues” have many similar physical and habitual characteristics to the True Blues, that the confusion here is more forgivable. The traits that separate them are very subtle physical characteristics, while the other distinguishing factors are mostly anatomical, and therefore unseen. Another similarity is that neither tolerate cold climates and prefer more tropical regions. True Blues are known to leave a wormery and have been called “Travellers” by Mary Appelhof in “Worms eat my garbage” (1982 & 1997)

How to tell a True Blue (Perionyx excavitus)

COMMON NAMES: Blue Worm, Indian Blue (named by David Murphy), and Malasian Blue

COLOUR: Perionyx excavitus: Anterior is pupley-blue and the posterior is reddish brown, (while Spenceriella noctiluca is electric pupley-blue on top and reddish brown underneath.)

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Banding between segments and have a slightly pointed tail.

ADULT LENGTH: up to 6 inches

CLITELLUM: Found between segments 7 - 10 - slightly depressed rather than raised.

FIRST DORSAL PORE: Found between segment 4 & 5.

HABITAT: Epigeic (Surface Dwellers) - Prefer top few inches of soil.

FOOD PREFERENCES: VERY Rich compost, decaying food & animal manures.


COCOON HATCHING: 7 - 21 days, depending on conditions.

Note: Perionyx excavitus is parthenogenic, meaning that they are not only hermaphrodites, (ie. have both female and male sexual organs like all earthworms,) but they are able to fertilise themselves, and do not need a mate to reproduce, while hermaphrodites need a mate to transfer each others sperm to fertilise their eggs.

The “Aussie” Blue” Worm (Spenceriella noctiluca)

Several (4) of the Spenceriella species (amongst other species) have been described as Bioluminescent Australian Earthworms. These four Spenceriella species are placed in a new cormieri species-group in the sub-genus Spenceriella S(S). The sub-genus Spenceriella is redefined to include species of earthworm lacking calciferous glands, a highly uncommon occurrence in earthworms, as this gland is credited with the earthworms' ability to produce large amounts of calcium carbonate to aid digestion and is believed to be the secret behind earthworms' ability to neutralise acidic soils. The fact that Spenceriella do not have this gland is the reason for their recent re-classification.

Why these worms are confused with Perionyx Excavitus, is due to the fact that on tactile stimulation Spenceriella noctiluca exhibit spontaneous blueish luminescence which is enhanced by addition of peroxide. Along with other similar external physical characteristics, including the depressed clitellum, make this species easily confused with the “True Blue”.

The Classic “Nightcrawler” (Lumbricus terrestris)

Nightcrawlers have a few distinguishing features, both physically and habitually, that have been found in an “African cousin” of another species Eudrillus eugeniae (commonly named the “African Night Crawler”.) Once again, these two species are often confused. Nightcrawlers are not great for domestic vermi-composting even though they are one of the most prolific breeders. The reason is mostly because they prefer their tunnels to be undisturbed and are restless if they are unable to burrow deep enough. They have been known to leave domestic wormeries in search of deeper ground. Nightcrawlers have been known to burrow down 6 to 8 feet deep, but come to the surface to forage and to deposit their castings and capsules. This characteristic makes Nightcrawlers one of the more important earthworms for soil rejuvenation, as they bring minerals from the sub-soil to the surface in their castings and take organic matter deep into their burrows. This cycle is paramount to replenishing our depleting and eroding top soil. Conventional ‘unsustainable' agriculture creates a loss of 75 BILLION TONS of topsoil is lost each year - equating to a loss of around 10 million hectares of productive land per year. Eg. 1 kg of wheat equates to the loss of 5-7kgs of topsoil. Introducing Nightcrawlers to agricultual/pasteral lands could turn this critical situation around in a relatively short period of time.

How to tell a Night Crawler (Lumbricus terrestris)

COMMON NAMES: Nightcrawler, Dew Worm, Rain Worm, Orchard Worm, Angle Worm, Night Lion

COLOUR: Reddish Brown, can appear to have a greenish tinge, with yellowish underside


ADULT LENGTH: up to 14 inches

CLITELLUM: Found between segments 32 & 38 - prominent orange-red

FIRST DORSAL PORE: Found between segment 21 - 23.

HABITAT: Anecic (Deep Burrowers) - Vertical burrows found to be up to 8 feet deep

FOOD PREFERENCES: Decaying Organic Matter.


COCOON HATCHING: 14 - 21 days, depending on conditions.

How to tell an African Night Crawler (Eudrillus Eugeniae)

COMMON NAMES: African Nightcrawler, Giant Nightcrawler

COLOUR: Dark mauve or pink throughout, and are slightly iridescent


ADULT LENGTH: up to 16 inches

CLITELLUM: Found between segments 32 & 38 - prominent orange-red

FIRST DORSAL PORE: Found between segment 21 - 23.

HABITAT: Anecic (Deep Burrowers) - Vertical burows found to be up to 6 feet deep

FOOD PREFERENCES: Decaying Organic Matter.


This page stolen from Herron Farms Dawsonville Ga. 30534706-531-9917

Categories: Herron Farms Dawsonville Ga.30534, Atlanta and Metro Atlanta, Vermicomposting

Thanks to all that showed up for the Vermicomposting 102 class

Posted by Tim Herron on August 10, 2013 at 7:05 PM Comments comments (0)

Thanks again to all of you that showed up for the vermi-composting 102 class today, had a great time and learned alot from all of you.

as you know, we ran out of certificates, we will mail the others out monday.

Tim Harvesting worms

Posted by Tim Herron on March 25, 2013 at 10:30 PM Comments comments (0)

this link takes you to my utube page--and shows the wormanater in progress.


Found Dog, Big Canoe, Dawson, Pickens, Forsyth

Posted by Tim Herron on March 23, 2013 at 5:35 AM Comments comments (0)

I was out in the wildcat creek tract the other day, and came across a dog......Not just any dog, this dog was tied to a log, right at the exact spot my gps had led me, I was on a totally different quest. The dog was left, tied to a huge log, but got loose, there was an empty bag of dog food (new bag) close to her, no water. knowing better, I brought her home with me anyway. Turns out to be one of the best dog's I have ever seen, she seems well trained. Protective but not vicious, house broke, stays right beside me,

likes to chase a toy and brings it back, I have 6 chiwowa's and she dosent get bothered by them. I found her close to the Dawson Forest. She seems like a brindal lab, contact me for more info.


Posted by Tim Herron on February 12, 2013 at 4:30 PM Comments comments (0)

the history of the new zealand red rabbit's and other new zealand breed's


Alfalfa Hay vs Timothy

Posted by Tim Herron on February 12, 2013 at 4:20 PM Comments comments (0)

Alfalfa Hay vs Timothy,

I feed my new zealand red or white's the same, about the third week I start feeding them Timothy, one----I like the name,LOL. and two, It just seems to work well for me. I havent seen any loose stool's yet, but allways looking.

here is an interesting page on it      .http://www.canadianpetconnection.com/alfalfa-vs-timothy-feed-my-rabbit/

New Zealand Red Rabbits

Posted by Tim Herron on February 11, 2013 at 9:00 PM Comments comments (0)

There is lots of info, here and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Zealand_red_rabbit